Y/Project could not host a presentation this season due to the coronavirus pandemic. In these extenuating circumstances, Vogue Runway has made an exception to its policy and is writing about this collection via photos and remote interviews.
If there is a designer most aligned to these distorted-feeling times, then one strong candidate is surely Glenn Martens. Chuckling through his roué’s mustache via Zoom, Martens didn’t demur. And how could he? For Martens’s metier—ingeniously constructed, apparently woozily skewed garments whose conventional templates are drawn from across the demographic landscape of womenswear and menswear—is reliably brain-bending at first glimpse, and often only makes (a kind) of sense upon second look.
But he did add a caveat: “Obviously, these looks are distorted, and that is part of the fun of the brand. But most of them you can wear calmed down. Have you seen the video?”
This season, instead of holding a menswear fashion show, Martens worked to create a video show-and-tell for Y/Project newbies and cognoscenti alike that he said was partially inspired from the opening scene of Dangerous Liaisons, in which Glenn Close is laboriously installed into her pannier dress. Here Martens and two colleagues show how looks from these jointly digitally presented collections can be worn every which way; take a fitted, ruched-body womenswear jacket, pull a drawstring, and—ta-da!—you have a full-length dress. Or reach into the innards of a louchely cut suit and—voilà!—you have a double-layered look with a new denim foundation.